There are two ways to kill ground ivy organically. Use a solution of borax on it, or manually remove it. I prefer to manually remove it.
Borax Kills Ground Ivy
Borax can be found in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets under the brand name 20 Mule Team Borax. Borax can also harm other plants including your grass, as well as your pets.A recipe for a borax solution to control ground ivy on bluegrass can be found here, but I do not recommend using borax. Instead, you should work on manually removing and preventing ground ivy from your lawn.
Prevent Ground Ivy From Spreading
Growing a good, thick, long turf will help prevent ground ivy, as well as many other weeds, by choking them out. But even if you have a nice thick lawn, you might still get ground ivy.Where I usually see ground ivy is around the edges of the lawn near planting beds or vegetable gardens. The ground ivy seems to start on the bare soil and then works its way into the lawn. For that reason, it's important to have a good lawn edging installed and use a good landscape edging and keep 3" of mulch on your beds to prevent weeds.
OK, that helps keep the ivy out of your lawn, now lets take about how to remove ground ivy.
Thatch Rake Removes Ground Ivy
Ground ivy is a creeping plant. It has a rhizome that spreads across horizontally and every once in a while flowers and roots form, like vine. (As can be seen in the photo at the top of this post.) This makes it difficult to pull, especially in hard clay soils. If you don't get the vine it will just grow again. This is also true for dutch white clover in your lawn.Pulling by hand doesn't work too well in the lawn. The roots dig in pretty tough in clay soil. You start by pulling on a few leafs and if you're lucky you can see where the rhizome is and try to pull it up along with the leafs by pulling it parallel to the ground and shaking it to loosen but most of the time, it's just going to break and you'll have a hard time finding it again. That method is also time consuming.
How To Use A Thatch Rake To Remove Ground Ivy
You'll want work the area with the thatch rake from different directions to make sure you get all parts of the ground ivy pulled up. As you start working the area you'll get a sense which way the vine is growing and you want to try to attack it perpendicular to it's growth. Use the straight tines on the rake. The bent looking tines are used for cultivating soil which can be used if you need to reseed some bare patches.You could use a dethatcher or power rake but with a thatch rake you have a bit more control and finesse that you don't get with a power rake. This is important because if you leave bits of roots or vine the ground ivy will re-establish. You can even make it worse.
When you're done, make sure to rake up all the debris so that the ground ivy doesn't re-establish itself.
The best time to dethatch your lawn and to remove ground ivy is in the fall (August-September) so you can overseed at the same time. By filling in your lawn and keeping it healthy with a good organic fertilizer program you can help croud out weeds including creeping charlie.
The thatch rake is also obviously good for dethatching your lawn. Not as fast or as easy as renting a power rake, but if you don't have a huge lawn, using a thatch rake will give you a good little workout.
So there you go, a chemical free, organic way to remove ground ivy and white clover!

I read this a couple of days ago because I was wondering if a thatch rake might help and I was searching for information to back that up.
ReplyDeleteThis afternoon I decided to give it a try just using a little handheld 3 prong cultivator. I had a little bit of clover and more ground ivy. I have to say it worked well. The clover, ground ivy and other shallow rooted weeds came up but the established grass stayed put. Most of it anyway.
I learned two things too. I thought I didn't need to dethatch but I probably do. I thought my lawn didn't have a lot of earthworms but I sure do. I didn't want to lose any so I spread out the debris and figured they'd head back underground since it was hot and sunny. Then I put the bag on the mower to sweep it all up.
I only wanted to do a little bit with the cultivator but it was going so well I couldn't stop. Couldn't get it all because of the heat and awkward position.
Thanks for confirming the tip and when I get a thatch rack to finish the job I'll make sure to come back and use your link!
PS: You're right about the edging. I got some edging for $8 a roll that was only about 4" high. Didn't come with pegs (which are !*@# expensive!). After a couple of winters it kept coming up and cracking until I eventually ripped it out. Are you sure this edging will last?
Glad you found it useful. I think you'll find the thatch rake to be a lot easier on the back and knees and will help things go a lot faster.
ReplyDeleteOne thing I should have mentioned about clover is that it is generallly deeper in the soil than ground ivy.
Sometimes it'll look like you're just combing the clover stems in an area where clover has been for a long time time. In those cases you might have to reach down, grab a few stems and slowly try and work it out after you've loosened the soil with the rake.
If there is a big patch of clover you might end up with an area with very little grass that needs reseeding.
Depending where you are and what type of grass seed you are planting, it might not be the best time to do this.
It may take 2-3 years of proper lawn care and attacking the weeds to build a thick lawn that can crowd out most weeds.
The edging is very good. It's important to install it properly. One mistake people make is installing it too high. Only part of the round top needs to be above the soil. Here's a site that has some good information on installing landscape edging.
I don't recall seeing Borax on the periodic table of the elements.
ReplyDeleteDoh! Wrong word. I meant to put naturally occurring mineral. I need to proof read more.
ReplyDeleteThanks